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The Leading Ten Collections The fashion market is in a bit of a self-flagellating mood and surely the environment remains challenging but contrary to the naysayers, we think this was a strong season on balance. And balance is the operative word. Alexander Mcqueen If Alexander McQueen's death cast a shadow over the Fall shows, his final collection shone brightly and remained sui generis. With their religious imagery and stately, practically medieval silhouettes, the 16 pieces showcased his abilities as a tailor, as a master draper, and, above all, as fashion's most ardent romantic. We won't soon forget his monumental talent. Burberry Prorsum The live-streaming thing was cool. Even much more so, the instant gratification of 'clicking to buy' the very same day as the show. But none of that would have mattered if Christopher Bailey hadn't delivered on the fashion front and that he did, from the cropped leather aviators and shaggy white shearlings to the killer thigh-high python boots. Celine 'Powerful, effective, decreased.' Phoebe Philo's description of her Fall collection is equally apt for the season as a complete, which indicates just how agenda-setting her vision for Celine has develop into. And from the looks of her silhouette-shifting kick flares, her sexy black leather, and her wonderful outerwear, her influence will not be waning anytime soon. Chanel A fashion showman nonpareil, Karl Lagerfeld had 240 tons of snow-ice trucked in from Sweden for Chanel's Grand Palais show. But his real magic trick was making fake fur woven into tweed suits, skirting the hem of leather jackets, decorating handbags and boots which just as covetable as the real thing. Snice one, Karl. Dolce & Gabbana At a moment when designers were going for the emotional connection, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana trumped everyone with a really feel-fantastic video about their atelier workers and a lineup long on their specialties: leopard spots, polka dots, peekaboo black lace and, the last but not least, those expertly tailored jackets. Dries Van Noten Dries Van Noten's MO? Give women what they want, and make it appear effortless as in a shrugged-on, slashed-sleeve sweatshirt an straightforward olive-drab button-down and lengthy shorts in a lushly gorgeous floral print. The mix-and-match prospective of this collection should have them queuing up to get into his shops when it arrives this summer. Marc Jacobs 'There is so considerably striving for newness now that newness feels less new,' Marc Jacobs told us. His remedy? Tweak greatest hits like panne velvet dresses, seventies-ish pantsuits, and evening sequins, and send them all out on unknown models to the tune of 'Somewhere Over the Rainbow', all of which sent his fans over the rainbow indeed. Michael Kors They do not come much more quintessentially American than Michael Kors, and in a season of quintessential American sportswear, the designer stepped up to the plate. Feel chunky knits, slouchy trousers, and wise chesterfield coats, but with the luxe factor dialed way, way up. Speaking of, he's your man for a sumptuous fur. Prada Casting Victoria's Secret Angels wasn't Miuccia Prada's only unexpected maneuver this season. As Marc Jacobs would do later at Louis Vuitton, she focused our attention on that erogenous zone frequently neglected by fashion folk: the bust. With their ruffled necklines, her fit-and-flare, fifties-ish dresses were irresistibly fetching and full of that indefinable Prada charm. Rag & Bone New York's go-to guys for a great pair of jeans and menswear-inspired basics upped the style quotient with their Fall collection, layering Harris Tweed with hoodies, matching camouflage to plaid, and sending out Fair Isle-by-way-of-the-Himalayas knits. In the existing climate, there's a lot to be stated for a high-fashion mash-up at fairly attainable prices. |
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